July 19th 2011 We had ridden well into the night to arrive in Ganzi. I had been forward by locals in Southern Sichuan that this NW city, bordering Tibet, was off limits to foreigners. A Han 20 something had told me that I would get beaten up or stabbed if I were to go there. The Tibetan 20 somethings told me that this is false, although foreigners are prohibited there, the Tibetans would be quite welcoming and kind to me.
That night to Ganzi may have been some of the worst night riding conditions of my life. We hit a fork in the road, as it was already dark and I asked a car which way to Ganzi. He directed us into the direction and said 16km. Even in the dark, we could see the road was in horrible conditions. Under construction? Flooded? maybe just non-existent all together. Brandon strapped on his head lamp and went ahead, my light was dwindling because of dying batteries.
The descent before we lost daylight and the road into Ganzi.
Have I expressed how much I hate night riding. I hate it, I have horrible night vision and the lights refracting in my eyeglasses does not help. I power on behind Brandon, feeling hopeless.
There is no road!!! It’s jeep tracks and a poor excuse for a dirt road. I have big trucks coming along and luckily their headlights can keep me on track…one of the dozen tracks. I can see headlights coming from all directions towards me. While Brandon is within site, he uses his light to help me get oriented and find my direction. Eventually he latches onto a truck moving slowly and “hitches” into town. Something I can’t bear to do.
At one point I find myself in the middle of field, waiting for headlights to come by to find my direction out. Finally finding the path again, dipping into a ditch and falling over…walking the bike. My damn pedals also love digging into the back of my calves…scars for life.
The last 3km I didn’t see one car or motorcycle. I remember coming up over the final hill and seeing something that looked like a landing strip but I recognized it immediately as the new road into a “city”. Brightly lit and freshly paved, literally in the middle of darkness. It’s about 11pm at this point. I can Brandon about 3 meters into the new road and as I come closer, he gives me the red light blink.
We head into town, anxious for a nights rest and food. Night riding always pumps adrenaline so we are not weary from the past couple of hours. The town is dead, not a light in a window, 2 meters after passing – what turns out to be a police checkpoint – we are stopped.
Having to wait for the Captain or whoever is in charge to look over our Passports and the 3 officers can’t speak English but we are able to communicate in English. The are friendly enough, about midnight the out of uniform man in charge, perhaps in his mid 30’s, about 5’6″ and smelling of alcohol informs us in English that “it’s a very dangerous situation here, you must leave tomorrow”.
Yes sir.
Find a crap hole to live in. The boss lady said there was hot water…which was bull crap and I yelled at her about the next day. Just another opportunist…
We drink some beers outside a shop before heading in for the night. I go across the street to buy some dumplings. What I can say, Ganzi is full of polite and wonderful Tibetans. At night, the streets are dead with little activity…a ghost town.
During the day…about 100 police and military in riot and squat gear. I’ve never seen so many big guns in my entire life…fearful of taking a photograph…I only snuck 2 and there are no guns in these. I saw military break up a conversation between 2 monks.
Anyhow, before this blog gets banned in China…
We head out around noon. The photo below of the Guru was taken on this day. We arrived at a monastery, that people had told me there was zhusu (and in the Lonely Planet. Also, the Guru had told me this too. While we were chillin’ with the Guru, I had a Tibetan arrive on his motorcycle and ask me to translate a message that was in English. It was poor English but I was able to do the job, must of been some tourists.
A hard rain storm rolled in while we were hunting around in a monastery and finally some monks helped me find the way to the tiny little monastery about 1 km back. The monks tell me there is a hot springs down the hill from there and we can bathe.
It’s been a good while since we’ve had a bathing (no hot water last night) so we head down. As I bend over to feel the water temp…I slip…and in I go! I can’t help but laugh while Brandon, still new to the ways and wonders of Ellen Moseman, looks at me with a bewildered and puzzled face. So, I’m fortunate enough that he caught this amazing moment. The half dozen monks really enjoyed it too.
