Tailwinds (Approx 80km SE of Urumqi City along the 314)

Lowpoint: Nearly eating shit in the am because of the snow and low visibility. I was fortunate to not wreck, and those split seconds I knew if I wrecked I would have a good chance of getting hit by traffic behind. Also, little point and shoot camera not working because of cold.

Highpoint: A tailwind I’ve never experienced in my life. AMAZING!

Tomorrow’s Banana: Maybe past these mountains.

Food Craving:Hot, homemade bread, by my momma, with butter…sliced really thick….mmmmmm, or maybe with some fresh apple butter.

The morning, first few hours, were hell. Snow. Low visibility. At 1 I stop for lunch, finally my jiucai and ji dan ban mian was the price it should be. I ponder my sanity and drive as I look out the steamed window…moisture rolling down the glass and drops from the ceiling.

The first few hours I’m still in snow but I can see the faintness of a blue sky. A few little climbs over big hills.

I see camels grazing…there is less snow on the ground…the sun is shining and I’m picking up a pretty good pace.

And then…WOW! Talk about a tailwind! I was easily hitting 32km/h on level ground. As trash comes flying behind me and an occasional tumbleweed across my path.

Not only that, the road is mostly a slight descent…some ups but the tailwind pushes me over with great ease.

But, I got hit with the side wind going over train tracks. I had to get off to walk the bike and still was nearly blown over. The wind is ice cold and freezes your face to the bone.

I started my day at noon and ended at 6 (40min lunch)…with a little over 80km in today. This is the kind of riding I’m talking about! Especially when I slept like shit because my legs were in so much pain.

My “luguan”…well, laoban wanted 30 and I said it’s too expensive. As I lift up the bike in the biting cold, he opens the door and tells me to come in and agrees to my 20.

Laobanniang is on the phone and when she gets off to come look at me she is ALL SMILES. Adorable little old lady. She points at herself and says, “Wo shi zhongguoren” (I am a Chinese person). I return a smile, bigger than hers and say, “Wo shi meiguoren” (A am an American person). Then she says, “Zhongguo he ….(I continue with her in unison because I know this line)…meiguo pengyou!” (China and America are friends).

They tell me that last night 2 Russian (man/woman) stayed the night. She told me they are walking. I told them I will probably see them tomorrow.

This may be the quaintest place I’ve stayed yet. Super cute. My table is an old, brown, steel sewing machine. No tv…it’ll be a book this evening.

I did wise up and the past 3 days I’ve been carrying my water in my jacket pocket. It’s useless to be carrying blocks of ice. Also, I think my Ortleib hooks are getting pissed at me for getting so cold. Yesterday I wrestled with one on the ground, and again today.

Notes for cyclists: Maps say it’s 312 but the road markers say 314…be aware of this. Not a lot of directional road signs either, just stay on the road that looks well traveled. There are about 3 turn offs from Urumqi that are questionable.
There are little ghost towns/rows of concrete buildings along the way…could make a good place to camp/squat/get out of the wind. I didn’t examine too much but some places had open doors. *The wind can get insane. I’ve been warned over and over about it…so be cautious. I was being thrown all over the road when it was coming from my side.