eleanor moseman

Morning at camp:

I make it over the beautiful pass, everything getting greener and greener.

What stands out on the side of the roads, are the amazing bus stops from the Soviet days.

I stop to buy some supplies and some Camca. The restaurant owner tells me to come in and I’m treated to tea. Before I know it, there are a half a dozen of Kyrgyz men sketching their questions out on paper for me. It’s an enjoyable time, nice to rest out of the sun, and have some local company.

Riding through a valley and then up into a beautiful green area of rolling hills. Scoping out camp, my first search is a failure so I watch, and wait, for 2 cars to leave that are on top a hill in a beautiful green meadow.

I’m really stoked on this camp site and push my bike up and over for about 2 km from the road. The bed of clover is so comfortable…so comfortable…I know it’s going to be one of the best spots of all tour.

I started off a little later than I had wished from Osh. Last minute preparations and saying goodbye to the boys.

There was a very strong urge in me to get back on the road, and solo. I have been told numerous times that a lot of folks get invited into homes along routes in Kyrgyzstan. Setting out, I wasn’t looking for that, but rather some prime camping and alone time. There is a freedom you have when your solo and camping. Don’t get me wrong, I interacted a lot with locals on this route…I just didn’t want to deal with the hassle that sometimes homestays have.

The first day, April 19th was a slow and hot day out of Osh. Of course I managed to get turned around exiting the city but finally found my way out and on my way to a little mini pass on the outskirts of the city.

I stopped in a little town for some early dinner Camca – they are the kiln fired buns with lamb inside. Ordering 4, they are larger than a fist and I’m hoping I can eat all of them.

An older man invites me over to share his tea. He begins to talk to me, and we go very slowly as I can’t speak Russian good enough. Continuing to pour my tea, I take notice of how he watches me. He seems harmless enough but there is still something unsettling about him.

He tells me he lives near by and he has kids. Asking where I will be staying for the evening, he invites me to his home. At least is what I take from the broken conversation. This would be a moment where I wished for a male friend. No women or children around him, I just feel uncomfortable with him and thank him for the tea and move on.

On the edge of this town, I will buy my only bottle of water for the next 8 days. Now, I probably wouldn’t recommend that someone “Fresh From the West”. There are a lot of wells, mountain runoff, and hoses that have fresh, cold water. If I’m ever in doubt, I’ll wait around to see if the locals are drinking it.

I don’t travel with a water filter, although I wish I did at times. I’ve found, at least for solo travelers, if the area has water the locals are more than willing to help you. Also, I use a technique of letting the water sit in the sun, through a clear bottle, and let the UV rays kill some of the junk. Along with boiling it if time allows or I’m really doubting it.

There are a couple of little mini passes on the way to the 2 major passes to Osh. I begin to climb the first little one towards sunset.

I think about camping on the hillside and I begin to watch the sunset. A shepherd comes over and begins to chat me up. He’s kind and I learn the Russian word for China by talking with him. He’s hanging around so I decide not to set up camp and to keep moving on and up.

The sun is setting quickly and I’m not going to make the pass so I get off the road and push past a garbage pit and up into the hills.

I can hear sheep and a few shepherds but don’t see anyone.

A man gets out of his car and comes up the hills to talk to the shepherds. He then comes over to me to make sure I have enough water. He leaves me be and I set up camp.

I’m never really fearful of shepherds, never had a problem with them. They are usually too busy tending to the herd to bother me.

Well, it’s silent for the next couple hours but then…then…this is what I’m kept up with ALL NIGHT!

I’m basically awake all night, between the “bahhh bahhh” and the gas release and the shepherds talking and waving their flashlights around. One shepherd is examining my bike as I’m peeking out and I shout, “HEY!”, trying to lower my voice and sound as firm as possible. It pops him away.

No sleep at all.