Day 2: Wu Lai to Toucheng 第二天:烏來台到頭城

The day started beautiful and ended beautiful. Even though we had to backtrack and most of the day was up. It being a Tuesday we had the road nearly to ourselves the entire stretch. At one point we going on a stretch, like most of it, with no homes no people and they were re-paving the road. No traffic and fresh tarmac (and not the type that sticks to your wheel). Jason told me a story about a cyclist touring Japan and how he would ride naked through these types of roads just because you can…there really is no one.
I’m really happy we went east because the last part of the day was down hill and zig zag, like WWWWWW. I clocked myself at 53km/h at one point. Those are the moments I love…finishing a long day with the wind zipping through your helmet and able to go that speed because of the lack of cars.
Of course we arrive to Toucheng racing for the last of daylight.
We ride to the coast and find a park and debate about camping. It’s right next to beach, the wind is whipping us around, it’s wet, a little cold and if you look at the map…you can see we put in a hell of a day.
Earlier we had ridden past this vacant apartment style building and Jason and I had both chatted about how it appeared it could of been a hotel but the front roll gate was pulled down. Jason asks the security guys where there is a hotel. WEIRD, they ask us if we want to stay there! So after some phone calls we are escorted to an ocean view room for about 12 USD. It turned out that it is a hotel/beach resort but we just happen to be there in the off season. Amazing hot water and comfy beds…along with wifi and cable tv…all I need.

It's really difficult to get out on the road at 7am when you walk out on your balcony to see this. Damn.

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mei hsiang

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We had ridden by here yesterday when it was open. The wood is for firewood, to heat up those urn type things in the background. They cook something that was obviously very VERY popular when I saw it the previous day. Yeah, backtracking kinda sucks. It wouldn't have been so bad if we hadn't had such a long first day and had been able to enjoy where we stayed.

More climbing to start the day off...but a top a beautiful tea field.

Tea fields are more impressive in person...and where are all the people. Taiwan and China are completely different. If you want a tour with very little human interaction...this is your place.

Tea time.

Peaceful. Everywhere.


This is what we've been riding through and up...lots of moistness to add to it all.

Finally, the direction I like to go...down like WWWWWWWWWWW.


The end to a long day.


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Day 1: Taibei to Wu Lai 第一天:台北到烏來台

The day started early, warm, uphill…and ended at night fall with a sense of being defeated. We thought we could make it to the coast by the end of the first day, we were wrong.

This was the beginning of the day, but we would end up seeing this again on Day 2. We had already gone the wrong route at this point.

Lunch time, then puppy love time.

The outskirts of Taibei.

If you are going a route where you see no cars, few people, and the road becomes about 10 meters wide...while thinking..."this is the most beautiful ride in the world"...you may be going towards a dead end. Although people had told us we could get to the coast from this way.

Winding up.

If you are going a route where you see no cars, few people, and the road becomes about 10 meters wide...while thinking..."this is the most beautiful ride in the world"...you may be going towards a dead end. Although people had told us we could get to the coast from this way.

This just didn't feel "right" as we pushed our bikes over the bridge after being told by two men that we could cycle through once we got across.

Our greeting on the other side. Do you think this stopped our stupidity?

wow

We have to find somewhere to sleep, and fast, before sunset. Fortunately most of the route is down but it's getting cold fast. It's difficult to camp in Taiwan, in certain places, because it's so wet. Really, really, wet.

After arriving to the first hotel we can find, it's dark out. It's on the outskirts of the main tourist area so we assume it will be a little cheaper. We're their only guests and they are a little surprised that we found them. The first time I had visited this town was my first time to Taiwan. Jason and I traveled here for the hot springs with his family. Jason and I didn't stew...we just walked around sightseeing, i.e. old people half dressed soaking in the water. After unloading int our room we immediately head out to the night market.I didn't get any of this, I'm not a big fan of pork face.

Home made candy - delicious! It's like a harder version of cotton candy. Little hard pieces that melt in you mouth. LOVE

The skewers were all over the ground and I hate skewers and I have a dirty scar on my big toe from one deciding to jump off the sidewalk and go through my shoe in China.



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Things That Change

I’ve been talking with my pen pal, Ed, lately about life and the life after a cycle ride – although mine has been considerably shorter…thus far.

Anyhow, the vain girl part of me gets a little frustrated about other things that are more obvious of change.

If you ever plan on a long tour, consider if you can live with this:

1. No more skinny jeans.  Actually, you’ll be lucky to even find pants.  Never really was a fashion diva of sorts, so I can deal with it…just a little frustrating at times.

2. My skin this winter is dry dry DRY.  Even for my naturally oily skin, its unusually dry this winter…in moist town Sh.

3. Sun spots!  Yep, lots of them.  As my tan slowly fades away, I see the damage.  I even had 2 moles removed last month because they were beginning to cause a little trouble.

4….and the kicker…WRINKLES!!!!  Especially all around the eyes and the nose bridge.  Funny thing, I would try not to squint when riding for this exact reason.  Damn it!  I lost that battle.

But you know what, I look at these spots, touch those budding eye wrinkles and I can see hundreds of stories and images behind each one.

What have I done?…oh well, I’d do it over again, in a heartbeat.  I just have to be better about applying sunscreen when I go back out…very VERY SOON.

Dream

I had a strange dream the other night.

I was living somewhere in Asia, in a shack, along the coast. For some reason I had moved all my possessions there – everything from photographs to important documents. Yeah, I know, crazy! I would never do that.

This tsunami wave comes in and wipes out the entire coast line. My hut was on the beach so everything was taken back out to sea with it. My neighbor, who’s home was deep inside a cave was able to hold onto most of his stuff.

I was so upset to lose photographs, as they can never be replaced. Although, my camera was still with me, as I had it in a bag on me when the wave came in. Of course, it makes no sense that the wave only emptied out my home and not demolish the home.

When I went inside to see if anything had been left, I was crushed when I looked against the back wall and my Saga was gone. My panniers had been still on her, fully loaded. I was crushed. Absolutely crushed. I thought, “I’ll never be able to continue on….”

Sometimes I still get butterflies in my stomach when thinking about hopping back on the saddle and continuing. I question if it’s still necessary, and after knowing the dangers…do I have the balls to go back at it.

Yeah. I do…I’m a pacifist but I will kill those butterflies.

Do you like metal? I like metal….

Border of Hebei and Inner Mongolia. This is looking towards Hebei (where I came from), with a 1km tunnel behind me and then 80km downhill. It was 4 days of climbing through the mountains that separate the two provinces – this is one of my 2 favorite road signs. This day – a total of 240km – no joke. Take notice of how the road is not paved but brick – this thing was steep steep steep…I walked it.  After 3 days…come on – give a girl a break!

Kindergarten

So two weeks ago (2 days after I got back from XiNing), I was a substitute teacher for a bilingual school here in Shanghai. The kids were so adorable and every day they got closer and closer to me. By the third day I had kids sitting in my laps and Friday was Teacher’s Day where I got a flower, chocolates, and a card from 3 different kids. Also, Friday was ballet for the girls – they LOVED it that I participated and they thought my tan lines on my ankles were hilarious. I brought home some pictures that a few of the girls drew for me, and some of them weren’t on paper.

Little Did I Know…

…that this would be my last day of riding for awhile. Every night I dream I am riding somewhere, and I wake in the morning to wonder where I might be at that exact time.

This weekend I aired out my tent and washed my panniers…the tears were from the soap…I swear!!!!

Qinghai, one day from XiNing

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