June 04 2010 The Day Before My Birthday

I was riding leisurely down a country road, hardly a car in sight, just passing horses, carts, and their drivers.

About a kilometer ahead I noticed something that just didn’t look “right”. I saw a horse coming towards me at a faster pace than I had ever seen before. The horse is getting closer and I can see there is no driver and it’s picking up speed and his mane is flying behind him. I see a commotion coming behind the cart at a much slower pace. Immediately, I take my bike to the side and jump off my bike, grab the camera, and walk very quickly ahead. From childhood, I know a spooked horse is not something you want to get to close.

A quarter km from me the horse collapses. I run ahead. These are those photos. You, reader, will notice a lapse missing from these. As I stood near photographing a group of 5 boys on bikes were next to me. I could see what the problem was, the cart poles were under the horse. I walked over, set my camera on the ground, and quit being a photographer and became a helpful person. Within a couple of minutes, the other boys had come over. We pushed down on the back of the cart while trying to pull back at the same time.

Finally, we accomplished it. I spoke nothing to the driver, nor to the boys. Passing the driver a couple hours later, after my rest on the side of the road, we exchanged glances with cheerful eyes and a slight smile – a simple acknowledgement.

There was a moment, holding that camera, taking photos, not sure what I should do…………..

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Day 6: Beinan to Kenting 第六天:卑南到墾厅

At this point the days are starting to merge into one another. All this mountain riding and lack of human interaction really causes things all to become a blur. We powered through to Kenting and the wind coming from the South was killer. Arrived by late afternoon and that was awesome…a long day of rest.

Breakfast is always my favorite part of the day when touring.




To the top...again.



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Day 4: Heping to Yuli 第四天:和平到玉里镇

It’s always wet and at one point I’m cycling at 9km/hour on level ground because my chain is slipping all over my rear cassette. I can’t apply any pressure what so ever. To add to it all, we’ve got wind and my feet are soaking wet. Seriously. What saved my a$$ this day was the sweet pair of Swrve knickers I have. Kept the chill at bay.
And of course, we are racing against night fall. What’s new? Jason gets a little irritated with my Tropic of Cancer photo shoot. Literally we have 20 minutes to no light.

Funeral


No need for words


My babe.


Ahead.


Always....always...


...getting chased by rain.


Tropic of Cancer looking South.

Day 3: Toucheng to Heping 第三天:頭城到和平

Something still strange, I never see people. I guess that’s why the East Coast of Taiwan only needs about 2 major thoroughfares.

Always temples.

Not a promising looking day.

Another temple.

Our ride to the top although you can't really see the road.

I love tunnel at the tops of mountains because there is something really awesome on the other side. DOWN!

Baby ducks next the bathroom I found behind the 7-11.

What lies ahead.

On the other side, after my chain snapped twice in about 15 minutes. No photos from that time because it was pouring rain. I've known that I've had some problems with my drive train but this experience really set that into my mind. We are dry by the time we reach here, after going down mountains but we are still racing away from rain. Taiwan is always raining. Yep, it's wet.

when you need to pray going down a mountain in the middle of nowhere.

Secret nook behind.

Hairpins.

Today was a short day. One reason being that my chain broke twice nearing the top of a mountain. Why do snap chains on mountains in the rain?…it’s like my bike is hydrophobic. With the repairs in the rain, being soaked, mountain climbs, and the wind hitting us from the ocean. We had to call it a short day. We stayed in an over priced hotel with Gramps the owner. He told me how beautiful Jason is…funny old man.

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Arrived: Taiwan

When did “International” Flights from China have a limit of 20kg per person…what?!

Always a learning curve!

Good news though, after 4 bike shops and 3 countries, my cassette has finally been repaired.  I’ve been wanting the 2 smallest cogs to be replaced.  Today, the 8-speed? chain was replaced with the appropriate 9 speed along with the smallest cog – that’s been driving me insane – was replaced.

Ever since…

…Mongolia I have been wrestling with myself.  (Mongolians like to wrestle too).

A half a kilometer before crossing from China to Mongolia, it had been difficult.  One thing after the next.  It seemed THAT NOTHING went the way it was suppose to.  I know you should prepare for incidents like this…but seriously, never in my life had there been days after days of everything just down right sucking!

(I would have more photos but since that camera was stolen I’m missing some stuff).

We tried to ride North from Zamyn Udd but the road disappeared – literally.  I had been warned to NOT FOLLOW jeep/motorcycle tracks as they can lead you nowhere, or your death.  After attempting to talk to two truck drivers (from big Russian-wheelers), one woman, and a young girl in a pink silk dress – we asked them about the roads and he just pointed towards Zamyn Udd spreading his arms back and forth horizontally. (I understood this as saying the roads are everywhere).

This is where we tried to hitch hike.

Looking South towards China:

Looking North towards Ulan Bator (where we wanted to go):

This little girl was spending the afternoon before the Sand/Wind storm blew in throwing rocks at a horse.

We met some great people.  Thank god this little fellow could speak Mandarin and Mongolian.  We may actually owe our lives to him.

They make ’em stronger in the North.

We did finally make it to Ulan Bator, which was a complete fiasco and nightmare.  And where I killed my  budget getting back to China.

After a couple of days of finding maps, talking with people, weighing the pros and cons.  We did set out on a very cold and windy morning.  We passed truck after truck coming from the West, loaded sky high with dog? pelts.

It was so windy, barely making it at 8km/hour.  I was extremely sluggish (I ended up getting really sick that night).  It was gorgeous but I was freezing, slow, and just feeling really dogged.  Jason rode ahead of me but returned when he noticed I was not near.

We stood on the side of the road and watched a storm roll in.  Storms on the plains are amazing…this isn’t an uncommon experience.  You can see it in the distance and time it for duck and cover.  You can also get an idea how long it’s going to last.  This is where I sat, looking out, and made the decision to head back to China.  And this is the exact place where my dreams fell apart.  Take a note of the road conditions…um, I mean jeep tracks.

I’ve longed for Mongolia for years now.   There is something about the stories, the photos, everything…that has drawn me to this land.  Well, needless to say, it gave me a really good ass kicking.  Jason built his bike frame so I was also concerned about his bike holding up, along with his 25kg limit aluminum racks.  Do I regret turning back, probably not…but I regret trying to go North West when I would be face to face with wind.  And I’m talking about a wind you probably have NEVER experienced.

I think of Mongolia AT LEAST once a day and it’s usually when I’m lying in bed recounting my rotations and playing the “what if” game.

So, I threw out the idea to my pen pal, Ed, of the Torugart Pass from China into Kyrgyzstan.  I’m playing with the idea of just heading out of China and pass through the K’stans to get back into the North West side of Mongolia.  I could at least have a hell of a tailwind to Ulan Bator.  Can I handle eating all the boiled lamb…probably not.  But I think I could handle the non existent roads, and it will be a hell of a lot easier to hitch hike as a solo cyclist.  I just can’t be defeated and maybe I’ll get to see Lake Baikal after all.

One of my ideas was to catch a train in China to get to Lhasa.  But yeah, sounds like a super touristy place.  If you know me in the bit least…you know I go in the opposite direction of tourists.   So, what would I do once I get to Lhasa?  Go to India…then where?  I’m kind of getting stopped in those tracks…so it’s to the K-stans.  From there…I don’t know.  That Russia Visa is a pain in my butt!!!!  I may have some guanxi to use for this.

So now I’m thinking of doing a circuit into Ulan Bator or heck…just go to Europe.

Please stay tuned as I’ll be back on the saddle in about 2 months.  Just got my Visa renewed for another year…that’s the most important thing right now.

I would love to hear from you!