Day 7: Kashgar to Sary-Tash (w/NESW by Bike) – March 31 2012

What the hell can I say?

Morning camp, Matt eating breakfast.

Beautiful view, of course.


The road you see above, that’s frozen ice with the track marks cut through. Cold water will run through the tracks, soaking our feet, and then everything re freezing.

The day started off well, along with the first 5 km or so…then it’s just worse and worse.

Because I travel solo, my load and gear weighs considerable more than the boys. We traded off our bikes every now and again to split up the power consumption. Chivalry IS NOT DEAD!

We do try and make the best of the situation.

But we are losing patience and beginning to grow extremely tired.

Truck drivers are continually giving us hand signs of “X” but also pulling over and giving us food. If they hadn’t given us an extra supply of food…we would of starved.

We got cookies, chocolates, breads, and even a can of tuna. We sat on the snow and stuffed our little bellies the best we could.

One truck offers to give us a lift, but everything would have to be placed on top of the truck cab. The trucks are all locked because of the border control.

We are absolutely beat. Absolutely exhausted. I think we may have made a whopping 30km today…and I…look absolutely shameful. Not many women, especially me, would share something like this online, on their blog…but sometimes…when I man demands to help you, you just accept. My load is probably close to 20kg heavier. Also, the size, height of handlebars, and set up makes my bike very difficult to push. The brothers hate my bike…I still love her. She’s just a real c*$t to push up iced roads.

Now, to make up for this, I have been cooking for the boys. My stove works better and as they rest in their tent after this hard, cold, and wet day…I get to work boiling water for food (my food, to get rid of my weight) and water to drink.

(I’ve been meeting a lot of mid 20 something fellas…and the nickname “Auntie” has been sticking well. I guess it’s better than a “crazy cat lady”…but I’m still quite fond of “Ice Face”. That’s the story from the next day, April 1st.)

After dinner I snuggle into my tent and have 5 pairs of soaking wet socks hanging from my tent.

What have we gotten ourselves into?!

Day 4: Kashgar to Sary-Tash with NESWbyBike (arrive to the China/Kyrgyz border)

March 28th 2012 – PLEASE NOTE THE DATE AND THESE POSTS ARE OF THE PAST.

Good Morning!

The day starts off well. Matt is feeling better and the roads are still paved, for a little while. The weather gets pretty damn warm during the day too.

We stop for lunch on the side of a little river. I, “Auntie”, cooks for the group. That’s the woman’s job, right? After eating we have a delightful visitor.

In just a few kilometers we will lose tarmac…this will be just the very (easy) beginning to a horrific ending.

Traffic

Later in the day, the ice melt causes all the roads to become mud. Thick, slushy mud. We are either pushing our bikes through 4cm of mud or slipping on snow and ice. As the sun begins to set, we know we are going to have everything freezing back on us.

The descent into the border town. Roads here are in exceptional condition. The boys bikes are caked with mud, mine not so. Thank you Soma Saga…I love you.

We make it to the border right before sunset. Kyrgyzstan! Tomorrow…or so we think…

The border town is shit. There is no where to buy supplies. We all decided to go to bed after finding some naan to eat. Nothing wrong with a little hunger, knowing we are out of China tomorrow…again, or so we think.

Sleep well, as the room is flooded with the smell of wet socks and boots. Damn it Lucas…I wish you had done laundry…Bangkok to Bishkek without a single piece laundered. You stink!

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Day 3: Kashgar to Sary-Tash (with NESW by Bike)

March 27th 2012

We had to end early on Day 2 because Matt had fallen through the snow and had soaking wet feet. The road was flooded out and all bikes had to be pushed off road through about 2′ of snow. Matt going first, he fell into the water under and Lucas and I managed to just take a little dip.

Saving time and reserving some warmth in the tent, we all cuddled up in the boys tents. Oh god, the smell…never, in my life. We didn’t sleep very well…sardines in a cold stinky can.

But then morning arrives…

Poor Matt, is still ill. The boys spent a half an hour digging the stakes out of the ground and I spent the time digging my poor stove out of the frozen sand. Sucked.

This will be the last of tarmac…for a very very very long time.

We head on and it’s freezing. All the water from the day before is frozen. I cross the ice first, bust my…um…lady parts on my top tube. I alert the boys to what I’ve done…after I crawl out from under my bike and across the ice.

Then…not 15 minutes later as I’m pushing across some more ice, I slip and smack down on both knees. I’ll feel that for days…more like a week. ‘F you ice!

Turned out the be the wrong way, so we are fortunate enough to turn around and go back over the ice. This time I don’t bust my vah-gine.

My favorite part of the day…break time. And look at me…showing off my Spanish skills! Oh, sister…paleeeeeeeeeeese…shut up! I’m eating these jelly orange slices (candy) that Brandon and I were addicted to last summer. The brothers didn’t love them as much as I (and Brandon) do.

We finish up the day having good fun.

Then trying to find supplies in this shit hole of a town. Where this local tries to rip us off letting us sleep in his extra room. Instead, we go back to the restaurant for an extra bowl of noodles and set up camp in the dark on the the outskirts of town.

Riding solo has advantages, so does as a team. I work more when I’m solo…I laugh more when I’m with others. Perhaps stay a bit more sane with company too.

March 25, 2012 – Day 1 of Kashgar to Sary-Tash


The newly united, and temporary, Team Windbraker Carrots.
Left to Right, “Captain”, “Supervisor”, and “Auntie” (later to be renamed to “Ice Face”).

It was a short, uneventful day. The roads in good condition and friendly folks along the way. We began the steady incline to the border.

I think one of the greatest things about being a cyclo (a person who uses a bike to tour/travel) is the fellow cyclos you meet. I’ve made so many friends from all over the world. After spending nearly 2 weeks with the Belgium brothers, I’ve come to love Brussels and have learned A LOT about Belgium. Granted, I already knew about the beer…but the price is nothing compared to those swank beer boutiques in NYC.

They would tell me about Belgium and ask me questions about the States. A lot of the info taken from movies and pop culture. It was good to have to opportunity to state Hollywood is a bunch of bullshit. Sharing cultures is amazing when traveling by 2 wheels.

Now I have 2 new little brothers and a home in Brussels! How rad…if I don’t say so myself.

The friends you make touring will last a lifetime. Also, you may even learn another language and culture. “merci gaste!”

Orchard Camp

Two nights before arriving to Kashgar, my first orchard camp. This is my proof to Matt and Lucas, of North East South West by Bike that I don’t sleep under roads and bridges…and train tracks EVERY NIGHT.

The three of us will be leaving Kashgar on Saturday morning and riding to Osh, Kyrgyzstan together. The border crossing is closed on weekends so we should arrive Monday morning.

We are a little worried of the weather, as it was snowing and raining here this morning.

Arrival to Kashgar

Last 50km into Kashgar was fantastic, hundreds of donkey carts, horses, and of course, the few camels. You can see these majestic beasts a half a kilometer away, their hair swaying back and forth.

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