WELCOME TO THE JOURNEY

Let's ride
05 Mar 2012
Sticky Post By Posted in Xinjiang With 6 Comments Permalink

1 bag of oranges and a stack of naan.

Sticky Post By On March 5, 2012 With 6 Comments

Never leave town without supplies, which consists of at least one bag of oranges (great for desert snacks) and 3 naan per day…at least.

I rode out of Niya yesterday with a stack of 9 naan, but only 6 remained by the time I left the gas station from my email check.

I’ve been camping every night, since…heck, um, I’ve lost count. Haven’t had a rest day since Turpan, and I’ve got my thumb duct-taped it hopes to help that split tip heal. This is probably the 5th time my thumb tip has split like this, and it takes forever to heal…and just hurts.

Yesterday, I ate a lot in Niya then bought some supplies. When buying my raisins from a cute older Uyghur woman, something happened and we ended up laughing and she squeezed my face twice, Gramma style! She then grabbed my bare hands as if they were cold. My orange seller woman did the same. Sweet and amazing women.

After the market, a black VW Santana swoops in front of me and I think nothing of it. Then a man jumps out and is saying something…which I don’t understand (maybe Russian?). Then a woman runs after me and asks me for my passport as the man catches up and shoves his id in my face saying “POLICE!”

He wanted to know where I stayed the previous night. I bit my tongue before “tent” popped out. There had been a truck stop 180km back and said I stayed there. HA. Moron can’t do math because if I had stayed there I would of done 30km/hour to get to town.

Lesson for those cycling China: ALWAYS have an excuse when asked where you stayed. The safest response is “da che”…which means you hitched a ride. It’s easy because you just say it was a local and he dropped you off. Or a big rig driver…so there is no way to confirming it. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS…have a proper response. Foreigners are supposed to be at a registered place for foreigners every night. No straying about.

Earlier, I had seen make shift police walking around with black baseball bats. They looked like neighborhood Han that got to wear shitty “Police” vests over their civilian clothes.

Hey dumbasses!!! Tired of minorities uprising against the Han…why don’t you quit having them parade their superiority around! I don’t see a Uyghur or Tibetan given a baseball bat.

The black VW drives up to the edge of town and waits for me…then returns to the city. I also had a marked police car following me as well, which I didn’t know about until later.

At 7 pm, I saw 2 Uyghur praying on the side of the road…it’s not China down here. Two others gave me a bottle of tea.

Yesterday and today have been cold and overcast. Mittens and winter wear both days.

A little difficult to get ready in the morning, but I make do.

On the outskirts of Keriya, where I entered today…they are irrigating? the desert. On one hand I’m laughing, but also, the starry eyed hope filled gal I am, I want to shout BRAVO!


click the image to see a bigger image.

There must have been 100 Uyghurs pulling these black cables over the dunes. I’m saying, 1000’s of kms of this hosing.

China does 2 things well, canals/irrigation and preventing desertification…and ganging up on religious minorities.

I’ve noticed some things about the cities/towns down here.
City centers are very Chinese while the outskirts are Uyghur. But…all the Uyghur homes look as if they are being rebuilt.

Once in Keriya, it had the new city center, with Han police in green camo and guns around the perimeter. I stuck along the old, Uyghur part of town.

3 Uyghur men waved me over and I was treated to a good bowl of pulled noodles and lamb/veggies. I get treated to a lot of free meals from Muslims. When I was leaving, I even got a thumbs up from a group of men. I’m acclimating to things here…slowly.

It’s difficult for photos, just rushing through, and the fact I disrupt everything. I stopped at a small down on the outskirts of Keriya and all eyes were on me. Nothing to be fearful of, just curiosity. Lots of men…LOTS. So there are many things that really make me stand out…and then the bike. The bike is always a distraction.

Once I get to Hotan, I’ll rest my bike for a couple of days and do some real photo work. The word on the streets is I may be putting this project on Kickstarter to help afford fixers and to pay locals for help. I mean…it’s just a rumor right now.

Okay, signing off…as I’m in my tent under a bridge getting some rest from the storm I’ve been pushing through for the past 2 days.

03 Mar 2012
Sticky Post By Posted in Photos of Eleanor, Western China, Xinjiang With No Comments Permalink

Transmission from my tent.

Sticky Post By On March 3, 2012 With No Comments

Gotta keep it short.

9th day along the Taklamakan, 4th day along the Southern Silk Road.

The nomads are beginning to move back into their mud homes/huts out here. I can’t imagine what it’s going to be like in a couple of months. At least when I return, the afternoon sun will be to my back, rather than burning my face.

Racing for the border…

Also, yesterday at sunset, I got to ride along about a dozen wild ass…no, not my bootie…donkies. I saw some more today…they are adorable. Last week I was just thinking how I want a few for my “Gentleman’s Farm”. Jason always told me I’m not allowed to have any animals with hooves…but those are the best animals!

29 Feb 2012
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Um…so I was wondering where they were?

Sticky Post By On February 29, 2012 With No Comments

Let’s see, I’ve probably gotten to sit down in my office…maybe MAYBE…3 times in 4 months. Well, here you go!

I probably talk way too much about the potty on this blog…but when it’s the only, daily, regular occurrence…the only thing that can pretty much be expected…I mean, come on…what do you expect? I can count on potty breaks more than I can on food or a place to sleep. Shit!

29 Feb 2012
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Snack Attack

Sticky Post By On February 29, 2012 With No Comments

Instant Oatmeal, Raisins, and 2 powder packets of milk tea (for my sugar rush).

My cooking skills were dramatically improved after touring with Brandon, a trained chef. I’m still working on getting that rice pudding as good as his.

You can also see by the color of my skin that I got a healthy dose of Vitamin D the other day too.

29 Feb 2012
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I am NOT Russian!

Sticky Post By On February 29, 2012 With No Comments

Everyone seems to be under the impression I am Russian. I have nothing against Russians but in China, random Russian women walking about are stereotyped as prostitutes.

So, I don’t know if I’m getting denied cheap places to stay because I’m a foreigner or they think I’m a foreign prostitute.

Either way. Today was fantastic coming West along 315, after sleeping in the desert for the past 2 nights.

The sun was shining brightly and 50km East of Qarqan I entered small Uyghur villages. It’s March 1st and they have begun to till the fields.

A mother was washing laundry with her little boy standing next to her, the sun bouncing around his sequin embroidered hat. A group of 3 women kneeding naan dough around the outside oven, their white head scarves dancing in the wind. A simple hello and the blank stares go to smiles and even a few “ooOOoohs” from some older women.

Yesterday, it was overcast and even was granted a few raindrops on me. I watched the grey clouds go from North to South. It was good because it prevented additional sunburn, as my face and skin is so damaged right now. The corner of my lips broken and cracked, my nose so raw and sore, deep creases in my forehead.

I’ve got 19 days to get to the border.