Nightmares

I have a reoccurring nightmare where I am robbed, either my panniers or my bike is left with only the frame and saddle.  Why on earth would robbers take handlebars but leave a saddle…only in dreams!

Nightmares

I have a reoccurring nightmare where I am robbed, either my panniers or my bike is left with only the frame and saddle.  Why on earth would robbers take handlebars but leave a saddle…only in dreams!

I’ve Finally Made it to the Magical Land of Xinjiang!

I’ve arrived in Hami and have spotty internet – as even a proxy can not get me through the Xinjiang Firewall.


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The train ride was approximately 1 day and 16 hours. No one talked to me, no one bothered me…it actually went quite smoothly. I chose the top sleeper, which allows about 24 inches of headroom. I always take this one because I can keep an eye on my stuff and no one is eating on my bed. Although, there was no selling of hot chicken feet on this train.

As I began to load up to unload, an old fella behind me started patting me on the back when the small group by the exit found out I could speak Chinese.

Unloaded and headed for the “tuoyun difang”…the shipping place for my bike. Of course it’s a madhouse in there and I can see my bike leaning against a sidewall. I had shipped it Monday in hopes it be there by the time I arrive – I finally got the timing correct.

There is a minor pannier explosion outside the train station while I’m loading up…oh god, I have so much stuff.

I’m warned of wolves and supposedly there is a foot of snow up to Mori…where I’m headed. There are majestic snow peaks around Hami and I can’t help letting my heart yearn for Sichuan when I look at those…I can imagine my former partner, Brandon, pointing out to those peaks and making a comment. YES, I’ve been spoiled by the last 2.5 months of riding…with a partner.

My stomach starts turning a little thinking of the solo game again. I’ll be alright, I remind myself….after a few days I’ll be back to normal. I’m thinking of the lonely days ahead, and I have to shake it…because it’s not that big of a deal. I’ve done it before and I’ll do it again. Someone at the train station mentions how it’s more fun to travel with 2 people…”yes, I know, my friend returned to America”.

“Oh, you are returning home to Russia?!”
I got about 3 comments on the assumption that I’m Russian, not a surprise. Every time I go North, it’s always the assumption. I’m not blonde with blue eyes, the American stereotype.

Notes on Hami:
Very difficult to find places to live that allow foreigners. You have to travel to the “new city”. 140 rmb is the going rate at all this places, and it’s Friday night.

I paid WAY TOO MUCH for this place but it has a shower, spotty internet, run by women…and it’ll give me time to re-pack and organize…which needs a lot of it.

On another note: I’m losing my fingernails. They all broke off from packing and I’m losing 3 to a fungus or maybe vitamin deficiency. Gross.

Finished a run to the grocery store for supplies and extra Xinjiang maps. My Friday night is going to be so exciting as I read over maps and drink a dark beer. Let the party begin!

I did buy these little amazing sandwiches at the grocery’s deli. It’s like fried dough wrapped around shredded carrots, peppers, a fried egg, a little cheese, and pepper. Delicious! I’m glad she thought I said 2, rather than 1.

Probably the last good days of weather for Shanghai.

After a week of rain here, Friday and Saturday were absolutely exceptional. I rode my bike around in a light jacket and snapped a few moments off the streets here in the French Concession. These are the days that remind me how much, and why, I love this place.

Hangin’ with the Guru

So we had gotten booted out of Ganzi, as foreigners are restricted from there.  If you haven’t caught the recent news, there was another self immolation by a young nun.  So, as you can imagine, things are even more restricted.  I’ve never seen so many guns and riot gear in my entire life, as I was afraid to pull out my camera as all eyes were on me.  About 20km out of town, I met “the dude”.

I would love to hear from you!